German Shepherd Dog Anatomy

1. Stop 2. Withers 3. Neck 4. Back 5. Cheek 6. Croup 7. Lower thigh (gaskin) 8. Hock (ankle) 9. Brisket 10. Hindfoot

11. Knee 12. Upper Thigh (femur) 13. Shoulder (with shoulder blade or scapula) 14. Elbow 15. Forefoot 16. Flews 17. Nose 18. Forearm 19. Pastern 20. Stifle

Dog Terms

Angulation: The angles of the bony structure at the joints, particularly of the shoulder with the upper arm (front angulation), or the angles of the stifle and the hock (rear angulation). Rear angulation has been the source of a great deal of disagreements in the German Shepherd dog breed. With extreme rear angulation, the position of the leg is so far behind the body that even though it creates a long and powerful stride at the same time it leaves the dog with a lack of balance and loss of agility. Show dogs have more angulation than the working ones.
The dogs which are bred with the emphasis on the so called "flying trot", or fast trot, type of gait have a lot of health problems.
More on the dog movement [...]
More on GSD rear angulation [...]

Brisket: The breast or lower part of the chest in front of and between the forelegs, sometimes including the part extending back some distance behind the forelegs.
Croup: The rear of the back above the hind limbs; the line from the pelvis to the set-on of the tail.
Flews: The chaps; pendulous lateral parts of the upper lips.
Pastern: The part of the foreleg between the fetlock (or pastern joint) and the foot that consists of five metacarpals (cylindrical bones). The front pastern and lower segment correspond to the wrist and hand of humans.
Stifle (or stifle joint): The joint next above the hock, and near the flank, in the hind leg; rear hock joint bends backwards only.
Stop: The point between the eyes where the muzzle ends and the forehead starts.
Withers: The part between the shoulder bones at the base of the neck; the point from which the height of the dog is usually measured.

source : http://www.gopetsamerica.com/german-shepherd/german-shepherd.aspx

How To Select A West Highland White Terrier Puppy

There is more to picking a westie puppy than simply choosing the cutest looking pup of a litter.   The dog’s initial appearance is not all that you should be taking into account.  You should also be checking out there mental disposition, as well as their pedigree.   Hence, every aspect of a west highland white terrier puppy, from their parents to how they were raised to their individual physical and mental characteristics, should be analyzed before you take your pick.
The following are the steps you need to put into practice when making your westie puppy selection:
Step 1 – Decide whether or not you want to obtain a pooch for showing purposes/professional competitions or a simple family pet.  If you are looking for a show companion, the breed standard matters.  This means the west highland white terrier puppy must meet all of the criteria and have no faults for which they can be disqualified.  They must also be obtained from a breeder that breeds champions.
Step 2 – Determine if you would like a male or female westie puppy.  Both have their positive and negative traits.  For instance, some people prefer females because they are typically less aggressive than males.
Step 3 – Investigate the breeding grounds and the breeder.  The dog you are looking for should come from a healthy sire and dam of strong pedigree and you should be provided with their background information.  The environment where the puppies are born and raised must be clean and comfortable.  You should be allowed to visit your west highland white terrier puppy and encouraged to ask questions prior to adoption.
Step 4 – Observe all pups.  Depending on from whom you choose to adopt, you may not have a choice of pup, particularly if you are only looking for a west highland terrier as a family companion.   In fact, in the case of many reputable breeders, most of their litter is spoken for before they are even born.  However, if the breeder provides you with more than one westie puppy to choose from, you should carefully observe each one.
Any west highland white terrier puppy should be ready to explore their surroundings between the ages of 7 – 10 weeks.  You will want to examine how they react to their environment, littermates and to you.  For example, roll a ball near the one that interests you and see how they react.  Since westies are not retrievers they may not chase, catch or return the object to you.  That said, they should show some interest in it.  You will want to avoid the dog that is uninterested in the objects, you or anything else.  These dogs are likely to have social issues.  An easy going doggie is often the better option.
In addition, you will want to observe the dam and even the sire if they are both present.  Observing their temperaments will give you a good induction as to the type of traits they have passed to their westie puppy.
Step 5 – Interact with the canines.  Physically pick up and examine the terrier.  They should be firm and muscular to the touch, not pot-bellied.  Coat should be white, thick and clean.  Their eyes, ears and nose should be clear of irritation, discharge or any other signs of problems. Gums should be pink, not pale in color.  They should also be quite active when you first hold them up; however, the squirmy westie puppy should finally relax and submit to being held and cuddled for a short time.  Remember to check the breed standard to know what you should watch for.

source : http://www.westiesavvy.com/breed-info/westie-puppy/

The Official Siberian Husky Standard

Origin and Purpose
The Siberian Husky was developed untold centuries ago by the Chukchis of Northern Siberia. The Chukchis, a nomadic people, utilized their dogs in many ways - companions for their children, hunters for their food and as their mode of transportation.

Siberian Huskies were brought to Alaska in 1909 for racing, proving themselves to be hardy dogs with speed and endurance. It is essential that the breed purpose be retained today.

General Appearance
The Siberian Husky is a medium-sized working dog, light on his feet, free and graceful in action. He has an inbred desire to run and an independent spirit. His well-furred body, erect ears, and brush tail suggest his northern heritage. He performs his original function in harness most capably, carrying a light load at moderate speed over great distances. His body proportions and form reflect this basic balance of power, speed, endurance and general athletic abilities.

The males of the Siberian Husky breed are masculine but never coarse. The bitches are feminine but without weakness of structure. In dogs and bitches, the bone must be medium with firm and well developed muscles. The coat is soft textured.

Temperament
The characteristic temperament of the Siberian Husky is friendly and gentle, but also alert and energetic. As adults, the breed tends to be aloof and independent. His intelligence, natural workability and eager disposition make him an agreeable companion and willing worker, especially as a sled dog. He does not display the possessive qualities of a guard dog.

Size At maturity (18 months) a male should measure 21 - 23-1/2 inches (53-60 cm) at the withers and should weigh 45 - 60 lbs. (20-27 kg). Bitches should measure 20 - 22 inches (51-56 cm) and weigh 34 - 50 lbs. (15-23 kg).

Coat and Colour
The Siberian Husky has a thick, soft, double-coat consisting of a soft, dense, downy undercoat of fur next to the skin, and an outer coat of soft, smooth-texture guard hairs, giving a smooth, full-furred appearance and a clean cut outline. It should be noted that the absence of undercoat during the shedding season is normal.

Trimming of the fur around the feet to present a neater appearance is permissible. Trimming the fur on any other part of the body is not to be condoned and should be severely penalized.

All colours (solids and blended shades) and pure white are allowed and all markings. A large variety of markings are found in the Siberian Husky, especially around the head.

Head
Skull of medium size and in proportion to the body; slightly rounded on the top and tapering from the widest point to the eyes. Muzzle of medium length, that is, the distance from the tip of the nose to the stop is equal to the distance from the stop to the occiput. The stop is well defined and the bridge of the nose is straight from the stop to the tip. In profile, the skull and the muzzle are on parallel planes. The muzzle is of medium width, tapering gradually to the nose, with the tip neither pointed or square. The lips are dark pigmented and close fitting. Eyes are shades of brown or blue, one of each or parti-coloured; all are equally acceptable. The eyes should be almond shaped, moderately spaced and set slightly obliquely with well fitting lids. The eye expression is keen, friendly, interested and even mischievous. Ears of medium size, erect, close fitting, set high on the head. They are thick and well furred including hair on the inside. This helps reduce heat loss during the winter months. The ears are slightly arched at the back and strongly erect, with slightly round tips pointing straight up. Teeth Scissor bite, strong and powerful jaws with a full compliment of evenly set teeth (42).

Pigmentation
The nose, eye rims and lips must be black in gray, black or tan coloured dogs; liver in copper (red) coloured dogs. In white dogs, they may be flesh coloured but it is not preferred. The pink-streaked ?snow nose? is acceptable. This normally colours back in the summer months.

Neck
Medium length. When dog is standing, the neck is arched and carried proudly erect. When gaiting, the neck is extended on an even plane with the top line, so that the head is carried slightly forward.

Forequarters
The shoulder blades must be well laid back at an approximate angle of 45 degrees to the ground - less than 30 degrees should be faulted. The upper arm angles backward from the point of the shoulder (sternum) to the elbow, and is never perpendicular to the ground. The length of the shoulder blade (scapula) is equal to the length of the upper arm (humerus). The muscles and ligaments holding the shoulder to the rib cage are firm and well developed.

Top line
The back is of medium length, neither cobby nor slack from excessive length and is straight and strong with a visually level top line from withers to croup.

Chest
Deep and strong, but not too broad, with the deepest point just behind and level with the elbows. There is a medium spring of ribs from the spine, then flattens on the sides near the elbows to allow for freedom of gaiting action.

Loin
is taut and lean, narrower than the rib cage, with a slight tuck up. The croup slopes away from the spine at a slight angle, but never steeply, as this would restrict the rearward thrust of the hind legs. In profile, the length of the body from the point of the sternum to the rear point of the croup (pin bone) is slightly longer than the height of the body from the ground to the top of the withers

Hindquarters
When standing and viewed from the rear, the hind legs are moderately spaced and parallel. The upper thighs are well muscled and powerful. When viewed from the side in profile, the length of the pelvis bone is equal to the length of the femur bone and the stifles are well bent.

Feet
Oblong in shape, the paws are medium in size and well-furred between the toes. The pads are tough and thickly cushioned. The Siberian's foot is like that of other Arctic breeds, it is a ?snowshoe foot?, somewhat webbed between the toes. Good feet are very important and should be examined in the ring. The paws should turn neither in nor out.

Forelegs
Straight and well muscled with medium bone. When viewed from the side, pasterns should be slightly slanted with the pastern joint strong but flexible. When viewed from the front, the legs are moderately spaced, parallel and straight, with elbows close to the body, turned neither in nor out. Length of leg from elbow to the ground is slightly more than the distance from the elbow to the top of the withers.

Note: Bone lengths for the front assembly (i.e., scapula and humerus) and the rear assembly (i.e., pelvis and femur) are all equal in length. The hock assembly is upright, of moderate height, with a well defined hock point. Rear dewclaws are to be removed.

Tail
A well furred brush carried up and in a sickle curve when gaiting or at attention, or trailing out behind when gaiting or working, and down when standing relaxed. The tail is situated on or just below the level of the top line. When carried up, the tail does not curl to either side of the body nor does it snap flat along the back. The tail-bone reaches the top of the hock when let down.

Gait
The Siberian Husky's characteristic gait is smooth and seemingly effortless. When in the show ring, he should be gaited on a loose lead at a moderately fast trot. The dog's head should move forward and extend in a line with his top line. He should show good reach in the forequarters and good drive in the hindquarters. When moving at a walk, the Siberian Husky may not single track, but as the gait speed increases the legs converge until the pads are falling on a line directly under the longitudinal center of the body, single tracking. The top line remains firm and level.

Faults
Long, rough or shaggy coat, texture too harsh or too silky, trimming of the coat except as written. A snapped-over the back tail set, tightly curled tail. Head clumsy or heavy, skull too wide between the ears, skull too small for the body, too refined or snipey. Low set ears (too wide-set for skull), downed ears (bent over as in not erect), flat ears (not slightly arched), extra large ears that are out of proportion to the head. Round eyes, set either too close or too wide, eyes set without obliqueness. Muzzle too snipey, too coarse (bulky), too long or too short (out of proportion), loose fitting lips. Any bite other than scissor. Lack of pigmentation on the nose, lips or eye rims. Chest too broad, ?barrel ribs?, ribs too flat from the spine as in ?slab-sided?. Straight or loose shoulders, perpendicular upper arm, unequal bone lengths, less than 30 degrees shoulder angulation. Neck too short or too long; not extended forward when gaiting. Short, weak or slack back; excessively long back, roach back, sloping top line. Weak (soft) patterns; too heavy boned; too narrow or too wide in front; out at the elbows; legs proportionately too short. Unequal bone lengths (pelvis and femur), straight stifles, cow-hocks, rear too narrow (weak) or too wide. Soft or splayed feet, feet too large or clumsy, or too small and delicate, feet turned in or out, or without the characteristic webbing between the toes. Short, prancing or choppy gait, lack of reach and/or drive, lumbering or rolling gait, crossing over in front or rear, crabbing, elbows turning in or out, stifles turning out, hocks turning in, wide tracking. Aggressive behavior or extreme shyness should both be severely penalized.

Disqualification
Dogs over 23-1/2 inches (60 cm) at the withers and/or over 60 lbs. (27 kg). Bitches over 22 inches (56 cm) at the withers and/or over 50 lbs. (23 kg). 

Source: http://www.siberianhuskyclubofcanada.com/

Taking Care of Your Siberian Husky

Dalmatian Other names Chukcha, Chuksha Nicknames Sibe, Husky Country of origin  Siberia, Russia Traits Weight Male 45–60 pounds (20–27 kg) Female 35–50 pounds (16–23 kg) Height Male 21–23.5 inches (53–60 cm) Female 20–22 inches (51–56 cm) Coat Thick double coat - thick undercoat and soft outer coat Color All colors from black to white Litter size 6–8 puppies Life span 12–15 years

How to Take Care of a Siberian Husky Puppy A strong breed of dog, the mature Siberian husky grows to heights between 20 and 22 inches at the shoulder with an average weight between 35 and 60 pounds. Often referred to as a sled dog, the eyes of this working class dog are unmistakable, ranging from crystal blue to glowing amber. Siberian husky litters average six puppies per female. The Siberian husky puppy, known for its affectionate temperament, requires plenty of care and companionship to maintain its good spirit. Instructions Visit your veterinarian upon receipt of your Siberian husky puppy. Your vet will determine a health care plan that is best suited for your new puppy. Depending on your puppy's breeder, he may have already begun a series of vaccinations. Your veterinarian will determine which booster shots he needs next. Feed her three times a day. The brand of puppy food you choose will determine the amount. Check the package labeling for feeding amounts and divide that number by three for the first three months. After three months, feed your puppy twice a day. By the age of nine months, your puppy will only require feeding once a day. Keep water out for your Siberian puppy at all times. Take your Siberian puppy outside to eliminate within 10 minutes of eating or drinking. Playing and sleeping also stimulates the need to eliminate in puppies. Therefore, take your Siberian puppy out to eliminate immediately after playtime or napping. Provide your Siberian husky puppy with a fenced in area. Siberians love to run and play, but also tend to roam, so he will require a secured area to do so. Siberians are also escape artists, so make sure there are no areas that she can slip through and make a getaway. Socialize your Siberian husky puppy early. Early interaction with adults, children and other animals will ensure a smooth transition as he grows older. As an important member of your family, he will require plenty of attention. Brush your Siberian husky puppy once a week. Siberians have thick coats and brushing is required to keep their coats looking smooth. Brushing will also help to remove dirt and debris and prevent matting. A slicker brush will keep the top coat smooth. Use a rake to pull out any knots in the undercoat. Take Care of Siberian Husky Instructions Keep your husky's weight down. This should not be difficult since they eat less than most breeds their size. Learn about the health problems associated with this breed: cataracts, corneal dystrophy, glaucoma, progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and central progressive retinal atrophy (CPRA) (genetic eye disorders), hip dysplasia and zinc-deficiency disease. Be prepared for a annual or biannual shed fest. This dog's undercoat is thick and lush. While they shed very little most of the year, for a few weeks a siberian husky will lose more hair than you'd think is possible. Bathe the dog infrequently. The husky is a very clean dog and grooms itself like a cat. Make sure to trim this dog's nails once a month. Keep your siberian inside or out, but remember that the breed is very social. If you don't have another dog, you need to keep your husky near its family. While huskies don't bark much, they aren't silent dogs. They grumble and mutter and occasionally cut loose with a haunting howl that will make your neighbors unhappy if it goes on for an extended time. Get ready to enjoy 10 to 15 years with your husky - this is the average life expectancy of a siberian husky. Appearance The Siberian Husky is medium sized, females 20-22 inches and 35-50 pounds, males 21-23½ inches and 45-60 pounds. The coat is soft and thick, of medium length. Many people who are allergic to dog hair can tolerate Siberians. Colors range from white, which is uncommon, through gray, tan and red to black and white. Mask-like face markings are characteristic. Eyes may be brown or blue, or one of each color, each being equally acceptable. Eyes A red/white colored Siberian Husky with heterochromia, a trait which is unusual in most dogs, but common among Siberian Huskies. The American Kennel Club describes the Husky's eyes as "an almond shape, moderately spaced and set slightly obliquely." The eyes of a Siberian Husky are ice-blue, dark blue, amber, or brown. In some individual dogs, one eye may be brown and the other blue (complete heterochromia), or one or both eyes may be "parti-colored," that is, half brown and half blue (partial heterochromia). All of these eye color combinations are considered acceptable by the American Kennel Club. Coat The Siberian Husky's coat is thicker than that of most breeds of dogs,  comprising two layers: a dense undercoat and a longer topcoat of short, straight guard hairs. It protects the dogs effectively against harsh Arctic winters, but the coat also reflects heat in the summer. It is able to withstand temperatures as low as −50 °C to −60 °C. The undercoat is often absent during shedding.Their thick coats require weekly grooming. Long guard hair is not desirable and is considered a fault. Nose Show-quality dogs are preferred to have neither pointed nor square noses. The nose is black in gray dogs, tan in black dogs, liver in copper-colored dogs, and may be flesh-colored in white dogs. In some instances, Siberian Huskies can exhibit what is called "snow nose" or "winter nose." This condition is called hypopigmentation in animals. "Snow nose" is acceptable in the show ring. Temperament  The Chukchi people which originated the Siberian Husky kept their dogs as household companions as well as draft dogs. Since the dogs were often in the dwellings with people and in close contact with children, bad temperament could not be tolerated. The Siberian Husky is still one of the most even-tempered of all breeds and Siberians often have a special love for children. They are also, for the most part, not aggressive with other dogs. Bad temperament is a very serious fault in a Siberian. Siberians are seldom one-man dogs but give their affection to all members of the family and are often friendly with strangers. Most do not make particularly good watch dogs, though they can be taught to bark at intruders and their appearance is intimidating to people unfamiliar with the breed. One of the most attractive things about the Siberian Husky is its enthusiasm. Siberians seen to get the utmost enjoyment out of life. Along with this comes an independent streak and a mischievousness so characteristic that the breed standard uses this word in describing the ideal Siberian expression. Siberians love to tease, and though they delight in pleasing their human companions, they usually have ideas of their own which they do not keep to themselves. A person who feels a dog should lie quietly in a corner except when obeying a command would probably not be happy with a Siberian Husky. For someone who enjoys a fun-loving, boisterous companion and who doesn't mind a little back-talk, the Siberian is perfect. Grooming  In terms of grooming, Siberians are very easy to care for. They have little or no doggy odor and their coat sheds dirt, making bathing seldom if ever necessary. Siberians shed their coat once or twice a year, so for a few weeks of the year there is fur everywhere, but the rest of the year there is virtually no shedding. For many people this is less nuisance than the year-round shedding found in some breeds. Daily brushing during shedding helps. Living Needs  Many Siberian owners have been successful in keeping their dogs dogs indoors or outdoors and or both but compromise has always been the rule here. Ideally, Siberians would chose to live outdoors but many times this may not be possible. Many have been kept successfully in city apartments. This requires a great deal of extra effort, tolerance and flexibility, particularly during puppyhood, and anyone who cannot stand dog hair all over everything several weeks a year, rowdy games in the house and daily walks through rain and snow, should consider another breed. Siberians crave company and an indoor dog usually spends more time with people than an outdoor dog, so if given careful training and regular outdoor exercise, indoor dogs are often better behaved and more in tune with humans. An indoor dog should have an area of its own where its bed and water dish are kept. If it can be confined to this area at night and when left alone, several problems may be avoided. No dog should run loose, least of all a headstrong Siberian. A dog does not suffer from confinement as many people believe, and will almost surely live a longer, safer, healthier life and keep its family on better terms with neighbors if kept in a secure enclosure. A fence about six feet high with concrete or strong wire mesh at its base should surround this area which may include the entire property or only part of it. Siberians can tolerate extreme cold, and surprisingly, do not suffer in hot weather. They need a dry, draft-free shelter in Winter and Shade in Summer. Exercise & Health  Siberians love to pull things, and this is the ideal way to exercise one. With a special harness, which is not hard to make, a dog can easily pull an adult on a bicycle, a loaded wagon, a small log or an old automobile tire. People who race Siberians use a wheeled cart to train and condition their dogs where there is no snow and an ambitious person can make or by one of these. An indoor dog needs daily outings, including some running or pulling and a chance to romp off leash in area which is safe from traffic. Chasing a stick or a ball, jumping, and playing with another dog, are all good exercise. Contrary to the popular notion, most outdoor dogs will not get sufficient exercise on their own, so even a dog that has the run of the backyard should be taken out several times a week and should have daily play periods with the family. Siberians are very gregarious and need plenty of company to prevent loneliness and boredom which can make a dog noisy and destructive. Siberians are moderate eaters and have no special needs outside of a well-balanced diet. As one of the "natural" breeds, the Siberian Husky is not prone to special health problems as many breeds are. Hip dysplasia, such a plague in some breeds, is not a serious problem in Siberians, but it is wise to buy a pup whose parents have been x-rayed and to discuss with the breeder what will be done if the puppy develops this condition. Obedience Training  Siberians, even more than other breeds, need at least a minimum of training for their own safety and for the comfort of the people around them. They are not among the easy-to-train breeds, but are quite trainable with patience and perseverance. If they are somewhat of a challenge to work with, the satisfaction of having a well-trained Siberian is just that much greater. Many Siberians enjoy obedience work and showing at obedience trails is an activity the whole family can take part in. It is a plus if your puppy is raised in contact with both adults and children to make them a well adjusted companion. Most breeders try to place puppies in homes which are right for them. If you think a Siberian Husky may be the right dog for you, we would be happy to answer your questions about the breed in general. Special Medical Problems The Siberian Husky is a remarkably healthy breed. When well cared for, the Siberian is relatively "maintenance free", outside of normal checkups and vaccinations. Hip Dysplasia The incidence of hip dysplasia in Siberians is fairly low. However, breeding Siberians should, among other things, be OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals) certified prior to breeding. OFA certification cannot be granted prior to 24 months of age. Conscientious efforts of breeders have kept the incidence of this condition low in the Siberian. Eye Problems According to CERF, the incidence of cataracts in the breed checked by ACVO veterinarians is around 15-18%. The actual incidence is probably higher as many long time breeders discover the anomaly in young dogs early and never certify them. With the typical cataract, the dogs vision is not usually substantially affected, and they lead a full, happy, albeit it neutered, life. However, a more aggressive cataract also exists, which progresses quickly and may cause blindness by 2 to 3 years of age. Corneal dystrophy is also present in the breed. This disease causes diffuse and progressive vision loss in mid to older age. It is often not present or detectable until age 4 to 6 years, at which time the dog could easily have produced a few litters and perpetuated the problem. Glaucoma is also present in the Siberian, particularly in some specific racing lines. Glaucoma causes the animal significant pain and vision loss usually before it is detected by the owner. Progressive retinal atrophy (PRA) and central progressive retinal atrophy (CPRA) have appeared in a number of breeds, including Siberians. These problems are genetically caused. Careful screening of potential breeding pairs has helped reduce the incidence of these problem in the breed, and the current incidence of PRA is relatively low. Obviously, Siberian owners and breeders should regularly check and clear eyes through CERF prior to embarking on a breeding program. Source : http://www.ncshc.com,http://www.k9web.com,http://en.wikipedia.org

Taking Care Delmatian

Dalmatian Other names Carriage Dog Spotted Coach Dog Firehouse Dog Plum Pudding Dog. Nicknames Dal, Dally Country of origin  Croatia (Dalmatia) Traits Weight Male 34–71 pounds (15–32 kg) Female 36–53 pounds (16–24 kg) Height Male 21–26 inches (53–66 cm) Female 18–25 inches (46–63 cm) Coat White background Color White with black or brown-colored spots Litter size 6-9 puppies Life span 12-16 years

The Dalmatian (Croatian: Dalmatinac) is a breed of dog whose roots are often said to trace back to Dalmatia, a region of Croatia where the first illustrations of dog have been found. The Dalmatian is noted for its unique black or brown spotted coat and was mainly used as a carriage dog in its early days. Today, this dog remains a well loved family pet and many dog enthusiasts enter their pets into the competitions of many kennel clubs. The Dalmatian is mostly known as the "Firehouse Dog" and the breed gained popularity after the Disney movies 101 Dalmatians. Body Dalmatians are a mid-sized, well defined, muscular dog with excellent endurance and stamina. When full grown, these dogs' weight normally ranges between 35 to 70 pounds (16 to 32 kg) and they stand anywhere from 19 to 24 inches (48 to 61 cm), with males usually slightly larger than females.[2] The body is as long from forechest to buttocks as it is tall at the whithers, and shoulders are laid back. The Dalmatians' feet are round with well arched toes and nails are usually white or the same color as the dog's spots. Their thin ears taper towards the tip and set fairly high and close to the head. Eye color vairies between brown, amber, or blue with some dogs having one blue eye and one brown eye, or other combinations. Dalmatian puppies Dalmatian puppies are born with a plain white coat, and their first spots usually appear within a week after birth. After about a month the Dalmatian has most of its spots although they continue to develop throughout life at a much slower rate. Spots usually range in size of a quarter to a half-dollar and are mostcommonly black or brown (called liver-spots) on a white background. Other more rare colors include blue (a blue-grayish color), brindle, mosaic, tri-colored (with tan spotting on the eyebrows, cheeks, legs, and chest), and orange or lemon (dark to pale yellow). Patches of color appear anywhere on the body, mostly on the head or ears, and are usually consist of a solid color. The Dalmatian coat is usually short, fine, and dense although smooth-coated Dalmatians occasionally produce long-coated offspring which shed less often. They shed considerably as well as year-round. The short, stiff hairs often weave into clothing, upholstery and nearly any other kind of fabric and can be difficult to remove. Weekly grooming with a hound mitt or curry can lessen the amount of hair that Dalmatians shed although nothing can completely prevent shedding. Due to the minimal amount of oil in their coat, Dalmatians lack a "dog" smell and stay fairly clean Temperament Dalmatians are intelligent, playful, loyal and active dogs. They usually get along well with other animals, notably horses, and are great companions. Dalmatians are high energy dogs and love to play and romp outdoors, although they also enjoy lounging with their owners. Dalmatians have been known to have a stubborn streak. Some dogs, if cooped up, can become aggressive and some have been known to attack smaller breeds of dog when attempting to 'play' with them. In most cases this only shows up in a tendency to bark, often just for play. If shown love and companionship from a young age Dalmatians will be loyal and affectionate. Head and skull ; should be of fair length, skull flat, reasonably broad between the ears, moderately well defined in front of the ears.moderate amount of stop. a good head ears too low ears too high muzzle; should be long and powerful, never snipey. Lips should be clean, and fitting the jaw moderately close. Nose pigment on a black spotted dogs should be black. In the liver spotted dogs the nose pigment should be liver brown Eyes; set moderately well apart of medium size, round, bright and sparkling with intelligence. (expression!! I am smarter than you think). Eye colour dark in black spotted dogs. Amber in liver spotted dogs. The eye rims should be complete. Black in black spotted dogs, liver brown in the liver spotted dogs. Eye faults ;blue eyes. Incomplete eye rims. Ears; should be set on rather high and of moderate size, rather wide at the base then gradually tapering to a rounded point. Ears are fine in texture and carried close to the head. Markings on the ears should be well broken, and preferably spotted. Mouth; jaws strong and clean with prefect scissor bite. (the upper teeth closely overlapping lower teeth) Neck; should be fairly long and elegant, nicely arched, light and tapering. Entirely free from throatiness (excess skin under the throat) Forequarters; moderately oblique, clean and muscular. Elbows should be close to the body. Forelegs perfectly straight with strong round bones down to the feet, with a slight spring at pasterns  a )correct straight front. Wrong fronts b) elbows under chest, feet pointing out c)wide barrel chest d) narrow,out at elbow,feet pointing in a )correct straight front. Wrong fronts b) elbows under chest, feet pointing out, c)wide barrel chest, d) narrow,out at elbow,feet pointing in Body; chest not too wide but deep and capacious with plenty of lung and heart room.the ribs should be well sprung, with well defined wither, powerful level back, strong in loin, clean, muscular and slightly arched Hindquarters; rounded, muscles clean with a well developed second thigh, (which you will get by correct exercise, road work or free running) a good turn of stifle, and hocks well defined cow hocks,knees in towards each other and toes pointing out correct hind action and good muscles too close & lacking in muscles Feet; round and compact with well arched toes (like cats feet ). Pads should be round, tough and elastic. Nail colours are black or white in black spotted dogs, and liver or white in liver spotted dogs. Nails should be kept short (which you will achieve by road work, nail filing or nail clipping) A correct foot pastern too straight hare foot toes splayed out Gait or movement; the dalmatian should have great freedom of movement. A smooth, powerful rhythmic action with a long stride. (it should look like the dog glides or floats when he moves). When viewed from behind the legs should move in parallel, the hind legs tracking the fore legs.faults; short stride and paddling is incorrect movement. (looks like they have to work hard to move, and when paddling throws the front legs out to the side). Hackney movement is also a fault, where the front feet are thrown up in the air (an action a bit like a milk maid makes when milking cows) Tail; should reach approximately to the hocks. Strong at the base gradually tapering towards the end. Should not be set on too low or too high. The tail should be free from coarseness and carried at a slight upward curve. Never curled or carried up and over the back. Preferably spotted Coat and colour : short, hard, dense, sleek and glossy in appearance. Ground colour pure white with either black dense spots on black spotted dogs, or liver brown spots on liver spotted dogs. The spots should be well distributed and should ideally not run together. Spots should be round and well defined and the size of one pence to a fifty pence piece. Spots on extremities are smaller than those on the main body. Faults: patches (this is a solid mass of hair with no white hair traces). Patches have a velvety feel to them, are very shiny and they have an obvious clean outline.they are visible at birth. It is important to note that spots that run into each other are not patches as you can easily make out individual spots as there are some white hair. Colour faults: tricolour ( liver and black spots on the same dog) lemons; orange Size: the most important thing to remember is that the dalmatian should overall be a well balanced dog. The ideal height of a male is 58.4 to 61 cm (23 to 24 inches). Bitches are slightly smaller with an ideal height of 55.9 to 58.4 cm (22 to 23 inches) Health Like other breeds, Dalmatians display a propensity towards certain health problems. Hip dysplasia (which affects only 4.6% of purebred Dalmatians) is not a major issue in this breed. Most of their health problems result from the onset of old age; the average Dalmatian lives between 12 and 14 years, although some can live as long as 17 to 18 years. In their late teens, both males and females may suffer bone spurs and arthritic conditions. Autoimmune thyroiditis is a relatively common condition for the breed affecting 10.4% of dogs. Deafness A genetic predisposition for deafness is a serious health problem for Dalmatians, only approximately 70% of Dalmatians having normal hearing. Deafness was not recognized by early breeders, so the breed was thought to be unintelligent. Even after recognizing the problem as a genetic fault, breeders did not understand the dog's nature, and deafness in Dalmatians continues to be a frequent problem. Researchers now know that deafness in albino and piebald animals is caused by the absence of mature melanocytes in the inner ear. This may affect one or both ears. The condition is also common in other canine breeds that share a genetic propensity for light pigmentation. This includes, but is not limited to bull terriers, Poodles, boxers, border collies and great Danes. There is an accurate test called the BAER test, which can determine if the defect is present. Puppies can be tested beginning at five weeks of age. BAER testing is the only way of detecting unilateral deafness, and reputable breeders test their dogs prior to breeding. Only dogs with bilateral hearing should be allowed to breed although those with unilateral hearing, and even dogs with bilateral deafness, make fine pets with appropriate training. Research shows that Dalmatians with large patches of color present at birth have a lower rate of deafness, and breeding for this trait, which is currently prohibited in the breed standard, might reduce the frequency of deafness in the breed. One of the leading reasons patches are a disqualifying factor in Dalmatians is to preserve the much prized spotted coat (the continual breeding of patched dogs would result in heavily patched Dalmatians with few spots). Research concludes that blue-eyed Dalmatians have a greater incidence of deafness than brown-eyed Dalmatians, although an absolute link between the two characteristics has yet to be conclusively proven. Though blue-eyed Dalmatians are not necessarily deaf, many kennel clubs consider blue eyes to be a fault or even a disqualification, and some discourage the use of blue-eyed Dalmatians in breeding programs. Hyperuricemia Dalmatians, like humans, can suffer from hyperuricemia. Dalmatians' livers have trouble breaking down Uric acid which can build up in the blood serum (Hyperuricemia), causing gout; and can be excreted in high concentration into the urine, causing kidneys stones and bladder stones. These conditions are most likely to occur in middle-aged males. Males over 10 are prone to kidney stones and should have calcium intake reduced or take preventive medication. To reduce the risk of gout and stones, owners should be carefully limit the intake of purine by avoiding giving their dogs food containing organ meats, animal-by-products, or other high-purine ingredients. Hyperuricemic syndrome in Dalmatians responds to treatment with Orgotein, the veterinary formulation of the antioxidant enzyme superoxide dismutase. Dalmatian-Pointer Backcross Project Hyperuricemia in Dalmatians (as in all breeds) is inherited. However, unlike other breeds of dog the "normal" gene for uricase is not present in the breed's gene pool at all. Therefore, there is no possibility of eliminating hyperuricemia among pure-bred Dalmatians. The only possible solution to this problem must then be crossing Dalmatians with other breeds in order to reintroduce the "normal" uricase gene. This has led to the foundation of the "Dalmatian-Pointer Backcross Project", which aims to reintroduce the normal uricase gene into the Dalmatian breed. The backcross that was done was to a single English pointer; subsequent breedings have all been to purebred Dalmatians. This project was started in 1973 by Dr. Robert Schaible. The f1 hybrids did not resemble Dalmatians very closely. The f1s were then crossed back to pure-bred Dals. This breeding produced puppies of closer resemblance to the pure Dal. By the fifth generation in 1981 they resembled pure Dals so much that Dr. Schaible convinced the AKC to allow two of the hybrids to be registered along with pure-bred Dals. Then AKC President William F. Stifel stated that "If there is a logical, scientific way to correct genetic health problems associated with certain breed traits and still preserve the integrity of the breed standard, it is incumbent upon the American Kennel Club to lead the way. The Dalmatian Club of America's (DCA) board of directors supported this decision, however it quickly became highly controversial among the club members. A vote by DCA members opposed the registration of the hybrids, causing the AKC to ban registration to any of the dog's offspring. At the annual general meeting of the DCA in May 2006 the backcross issue was discussed again by club members. In June of the same year DCA members were presented with an opportunity to vote on whether to reopen discussion of the Dalmatian Backcross Project. The results of this ballot were nearly 2:1 in favor of re-examining support of the Dalmatian Backcross Project by the Dalmatian Club of America. This has begun with publication of articles presenting more information both in support of and questioning the need for this Project. As of May 2007, discussion is on-going. In January 2010, the UK Kennel Club announced its decision to register a backcrossed Dalmatian, pending confirmation of the dog's appearance and characteristics by two Championship Show judges. The decision was made due to the club's "commitment to consider applications to register dogs from out-crossings and inter-variety matings if it is felt that to do so may present potential health and welfare benefits." Several restrictions were imposed on the dog. Although the dog is at least 13 generations removed from the original Pointer cross, its F1 to F3 progeny will be marked on registration certificates with asterisks (which "indicate impure or unverified breeding), no progeny will be eligible to be exported as pedigrees for the next five years, and all have to be health tested. Instructions Take your Dalmatian to the veterinarian for his annual exam and shots. Make sure his hearing is checked, because 10 to 20 percent of Dalmatians are deaf. Have your veterinarian do a urinalysis on your Dalmatian. They are prone to urinary stones because of their uric acid levels. Put your Dalmatian on a special low protein diet if your veterinarian recommends this. The low protein diet will help keep your Dalmatian from getting urinary tract problems. Brush your Dalmatian regularly as they tend to shed a lot. However, baths are only needed when necessary. Clip there nails and brush their teeth regularly. Give them lots of room to run, or take frequent walks around your neighborhood or park. If they become bored and are not taken for exercise regularly, they start to display destructive behavior. Show them lots of affections. Dalmatians are a very people-oriented breed and crave human attention. Source : http://www.nfleming.dsl.pipex.com/html/breed_standard.html,http://www.ehow.com/how_4473761_take-care-dalmatian.html